There seems to be some confusion as to the correct spelling of the parish. The Vermilion Parish Tourist Commission spells the parish with one L. But historically, it appears to have been spelled with two Ls. Here is a map I found online of the parish from 1895 with the older spelling:

And here is an aerial image of some of the rice fields in Vermilion. Rice farming is an economic base of the parish.

I hope to have more information to post soon, but I must take care of some chores and get on the road to Abbeville.

I am in Baton Rouge, an hours distance from New Orleans. This city and its suburbs are where tens of thousands of New Orleanian residents came to live after fleeing their flooded homes. Many were housed in local motels and hotels, their accomodations paid for by FEMA. At Motel 6 I noticed the following:

When I first came to register at the front desk, I found the door locked from the inside. The manager, a young woman, explained it was for her security. When I asked her to elaborate she simply repeated herself. She locked the door after I entered the motel lobby. I asked her if many hurricane evacuees were staying there. She said, “A few.” I think there were many more than a few. She was obviously not comfortable with the situation both personally and professionally. I found the motel to be noisy if not lively. During the days especially, I often heard residents hollering to roomates or other guests across the open courtyard and pool, sometimes playing music from their rooms, every minute or so another cellphone ring or walkie-talkie bleep would broadcast to every resident of the motel courtyard that one peson or another had received a call or had been texted. I noticed no one ever used the outdoor pool even though it was warm. Other residents left their doors open to let the music they were playing drift outside. Many residents had notes taped to their windows saying “no room service” or “do not disturb.” When the friendly and patient room service woman came to my door she would politely ask me to initial that I had requested no full room service, just the emptying of trash and a change of towels. At night I noticed the presence of a police car in the parking lot. I saw the scampering of stray cats and kittens in the bushes next to the pool and through the fences separating one sprawling roadside parking lot from its neighboring asphalt expanse.

A note in the motel lobby advertises complimentary coffee before 9am. I also noticed a single letter posted next to the coffee machine, a comunique from FEMA to evacuees explaining that rooms would no longer be paid for after February 7, 2006. On the local news, I could not find any stories of what was like to live as an evacuee in a motel room, however, other stories featuring a crime angle helped to frame these motels as sources of criminal activity and danger. A motel across the street from me, Microtel, was often featured because they had turned off phone service to motel rooms after 10pm, ostensibly as a means of curbing apparent prostitution. The allegation of prostitution was not investigated by the local news. A poor old black woman was interviewed as relying on the phone service after 10pm in order to communicate with a close relative on the west coast suffering from breast cancer. Another motel, where a white woman and her mother was featured prominently as they complained about the lack of safety and their willingness to kill anyone who knocked at their door. They made this point as the news cameraperson videoed them brandishing and cocking a very large gun. Black and hispanic room service employees sustaining the motel accomodations for these evacuee resident were not interviewed.

At the La Quinta Inn, I found less evacuees. The Inn is about twice as expensive as Motel 6. I am treated cordially and with respect by the concierge. The lobby of the Inn is not locked and people actually sit down and talk to one another. A TV set featuring Fox News plays constantly. The friendly and polite room service does not ask me to initial any papers. A stack of FEMA notices are available on the lobby counter. Last Friday (1/27/2006), while waiting once again for deployment, I met a group of FEMA employees in the lobby. Their task was to inform evacuee residents of the February 7 deadline and the opportunities for assistance if they should need any after that date. The FEMA employees are young and black. one woman and two men. the men speak to me and are very curious about the details of the Long Term Recovery Project I’ll be working on. (That makes three of us!) We chat for a while and they invite me later to join them after work some day for beer and billiards. An evacuee approaces them in the lobby about making a FEMA claim and even though that is not their mission at the Inn, they sit down with the man and help him.

After my meeting Thursday morning, instead of sitting on an outdoor sidewalk bench though, I walked over to Coffee Star, a local cafe where I was also hoping to check out whatever free community papers and zines were available, and see what fliers may have been posted on a flier table or community corkboard. Coffee Star is a nice cafe (offering free wi-fi) but to my surprise there were no fliers of local art events or music shows. I did find two free community papers but neither seemed to give too much of a glimpse of the local art, music, or youth culture. (Later, someone I met here showed me that this info is found in a Sunday section, called Fun!, inside the city’s daily paper, The Advocate.) Coffee Star also did not have any vegetarian options: even their tomato soup had a meat stock base! But with free wi-fi it feels decidedly spoiled to kvetch.

I couldn’t stay at the cafe too long — anticipating FEMA deployment at any moment, I made certain to make good on my promise to explore Baton Rouge’s levee walk and take some pictures. Levees figure prominently in almost every major American city as most cities were founded as river ports and these rivers naturally overflowed every few years as rivers are wont to. The deposition of sediment from river flooding is the reason why land next to rivers is so fertile. But farming practices in this country have long sought to maximize agricultural land use to the neglect of nature. The essential riparian buffer, the unique vegetated ecosystems that border rivers, is often reduced to only a few meters of scrub. Important trees such as weeping willows, that sunk their roots into the fresh waters of the river, effectively controlling erosion of the riverbanks, were removed. Riverbanks with steeper sides flow faster causing further erosion. This problem was compounded during American industrialization in the 19th and early 20th century when forests east of the Mississippi near cities of any size were clearcut. Without forests to soak up water, the water travels more quickly to creeks, streams, and rivers, carrying soil and other detritus such as farm waste.

There is often no riparian buffer to speak of near the industrialized riverbanks of cities and towns. Add to this, the water poring off of all the impervious surfaces from city parking lots, streets and sidwewalks, driveways, and rooftops, flows directly into stormwater systems getting pumped into nearby rivers and you have the makings for terrific urban floods. Historic urban flooding was rather common place in America until the 1930s and 50s when huge engineering projects accomplished by the US Army Corp of Engineers, effectively created buffers: levees and floodwalls, next to cities saving them from all but the most devastating floods.

Floodwalls and levees provided some solace but there were consequences of course. City residents were cut off from an essential aspect of their environmental habitat by anoter huge layer of urban infrastructure. Obvious recreational uses of rivers and streams diminished, and without concerned and popular usage, rivers and streams became more and more polluted without a large enough constituency to protect and preserve them. Leap ahead to the 1960s and 1970s when rational planning began to be challenged by community oriented planning theories and practices which sought to recognize neighborhood assets for residents to use, and to help rejuvenate city economies. All sorts of wonderful city planning solutions were developed: an increased recognition of arts and culture institutions, restoring public transit systems that had been abandoned in favor of personal automobiles, reusing transit lines for bicycle and pedestrian paths, protecting and promoting historic buildings and residential and business districts, promoting urban art and rethinking public sculpture and wall art (grafitti vs. murals), creating distinctive urban gateways and signage to create a “sense of place”, rethinking public spaces such as streetcorners, plazas, and streets as cultural assets and to enhance an economy oriented to pedestrian use rather than the efficient movement of workers in automobiles into the city by 9am and out of the city to their suburban retreats by 6pm. Urban neighborhoods, some spearated from nearby rivers and tributaries by levees, received renewed attention as these neighborhoods were within pedestrian walking or bicycling distance to the central business district or legacy (or expandable) public transit systems. To keep these neighborhoods attractive, residents had long sought to protect and promote their nearby parks. But for neighborhoods next to rivers the only available greenspace was that dominated by levees and floodwalls. Similarly, for cities looking to leverage the beautiful waterfronts of their central business districts (for perceived enhanced prestige, a more dynamic tourism economy, and taxable waterfront property value increases), planners needed to find some solution to get people to cross the highways, railroads, and levees commonly situated parallel to their urban waterfront.

Examples of these sorts of developments can be found in the American Planning Association’s Plannign magazine. And non-profit groups such as the Project for Public Spaces, the Rails-to-Trails Conservancy, and even conservation groups such as the Trust for Public Land, help to advocate for reusing public open spaces to enhance the pedetrian, and recreational life and economies of cities. Movements such as Smart Growth in the US, sustainable development in Europe and developing countries, and the Healthy Cities movement in Canada and elsewhere, openly encourage these sorts of developments as a strategy which both controls development through thoughtful stewardship of urban open spaces, and brings other values to local economies (health, tourism, direct use, hedonic/property value, commuter transit, and “green” infrastructure).

Other more intangible values, harder to affix an economic/monetary value on: psychological health, aesthetics, spiritual satisfaction, quality and diversity of wildlife habitat, are also enhanced but are harder to advocate for. And to add some frustratin complexity which is oft ignores, the values of once kind of open space development oriented to one tangible value (tourism) may conflict with another (habitat). Part of the planning process is determining priorities, and in creating a recreational use for an abandoned and sullied urban open space, the restoration of the environment will take a backseat to whatever designs are dreamt to drive new users to the space. So, for example, a desire to provide residents a clear view of their river from a levee walk, might inspire planners to cut away the “weeds and brush” growing next to the river, ignoring the essential value of the riparian buffer in controlling riverbank erosion, in providing access to wildlife inhabiting a diverse ecosystem, as well as providing a nurturing habitat for fish that lay their eggs and grow their spawn in the slower, cooler waters of riverbanks shaded by river trees and roots. Public perceptions of safety in urban parks, mediated by nighttime lighting and public 911 kiosks, are often at odds with park designs which benefit wildlife habitat. My own feeling is that an responsibly developed and brilliant landscape designs will respect the use of that space for the other creatures we share our cities with, and will also recognize the value of that space as natural and sustainable green infrastructure.

Baton Rouge’s thinking for urban redevelopment along its riverfront levee has not sought to restore any of the terribly important Mississippi riparian buffer lost in the last three centuries to te industrial use of its port and the creation of its massive levee. But they have created an attractive levee walk that connects the downtown to LSU’s campus with plans for expansion both north and south along the Mississippi. The result is pleasant enough but also a little comical: the repetition of lampost, bench, garbage pail every twenty, could benefit from some diversity in the form of the street furniture. (That would, of course, have cost more money for the project.) A restored train station next to the river was made into an annex of a new museum of natural history and planetarium. The levee connects to a WWII battleship, the USS Kitt, a fantastic piece of modern sculpture and fountain, and a very artistic, if baffling, piece of river architecture… something like a multi-tiered pier with many curvy paper clip shaped piping. Pictures to follow (full size images can be browsed in the photo gallery). I’m looking for information as to who designed the fountain architecture and the river pier tower.

My last evening at Motel 6 capped a week exploring Baton Rouge’s vegetarian possibilites. Thinking I could find something at a Chinese restaurant I stopped down the road at the Chinese Inn, an example of classic American roadside architecture. The szechuan tofu was spicy but seemed hastily prepared, and a glass of water, when it eventually was provided, tasted funny just like Baton Rouge tap water.

Good eats were found the next day at Taste of China, which had an all I could eat buffet, so I left stuffed. Plenty of veggie grub to be had there. Cheap and recommended if you have to eat off of the highway.

Ideally, there would be an inexpensive veggie restaurant downtown. Haven’t found one yet, but I did locate Coffee Star, a nice cafe on Florida Blvd just east of Third Street. Free wi-fi, decent and relatively inexpensive chai, and comfortable digs. Nothing vegetarian though — even the tomato soup had meat stock. A fewblocks over is the levee, and I’ll be visiting it after this post and cup of chai to take a few pics. Also, taking a cue from Richard Layman, I’ll be taking pictures of so-called “street furniture”: way finding signs and other unique streetscape characteristics of Baton Rouge, and whatever else strikes my planner’s eye. My father’s been taking pictures of urban streets for many years. Now that I’ve caught a bit of the bug I’ve realized that to take good urban pictures takes a good eye, some talent, and experience. So the ones you’re seeing next to these posts are also documenting the development of my planner’s eye.

My first meeting since I arrived this morning gave me a glimpse of the 25 or so other contractors working on the Long Term Recovery Project. I noticed I was one of the few to have actually have been cleared and FEMA badged. I was also one of the youngest. In my unscientific survey I observed the median age was close to 50. Schmoozing with a few of the other contractors was interrupted by the meeting — a wonderful, if all to brief, presentation on Louisana’s colorful history by documentarian and local historian Jeff Duhe. It was a real pleasure meeting another historian so soon. There will be plenty of opportunities I think to network with some bright and interesting people here.

I was expecting some details of my deployment, but so far: not yet… sometime this afternoon I’m told. I hope to know soon because for all practical purposes I’m living out of my rental car today and need to make lodging accomodation for this evening wherever I’ll be staying, in Baton Rouge, Lafayette, New Orleans, or wherever.

One more thing, I learned yesterday listeining to local public radio, WRKF 89.3FM, that Baton Rouge/Louisiana State University is the home of the writer and essayist Andrei Codrescu! (This is almost as cool as being in the town as Daniel Pinkwater). Maybe I’ll run into Mr. Codrescu (or write to him).

But I have been able to explore a bit of Baton Rouge. The downtown is lovely, if not lively. Beautiful streetscapes with the occasional parking lot where a building must once have stood. The area around North and 3rd Street is particularly excellent.

There’s some new development by the Mississippi River, the kind of extravagant if contrived development designed to convince the people living out by Airline Highway to come back to the city for some sports, fun, and culture. A museum of natural history neighbors an arts museum, a small gallery district, a sports arena, and a bit futher south, a casino. Except for this section however, the river’s levee has an industrial feel with a nice view of southern urban decay. There is a levee walk that extends to the Lousiana State University campus however — an excellent recreational asset, though I’d like to see more of a natural riparian buffer along the Mississippi, maybe a restoration of the great Weeping Willow trees that historically abutted the river, controlled erosion, and calmed and cooled its banks.

While wandering around the city Friday night I came across this weird gutted building. Checking the door I discovered to my surprise that this was the regional FEMA office!

I wish I could describe more interesting adventures while I’ve been waiting for my background check to come through. I did discover a few free wif-fi hotspots near LSU’s campus, and will be spending more time there just to get away from my motel room. And I’ll be taking some pictures of the levee and riverfront here too.

I mention this because Shabbat is arriving here in Baton Rouge in a few hours and through my fruity Jewish contacts, I’ve already found some Jews in the Bayou here, vegetarians who know as much about the local Jewish scene as the local Bollywood scene in New Orleans (thanks Yonah and Bev). So in a few hours I’ll be in downtown Baton Rouge where the energy of this place is, and exploring it in earnest. Have a peaceful and restful shabbes everyone!

But arriving in Baton Rouge, whatever angst I felt was superseded by practical considerations. First, acquiring the rental car. Second, determing directions to my destination. Third, meeting my TAC coordinator. Fourth, driving to FEMA HQ for fingerprinting and background checking. Fifth, finding accomodations at the Motel 6. Sixth, scouting for food on this Baton Rouge strip. Seventh, connecting to the Internet via GPRS enabled cell phone.

A little hacking on this blog and I also managed to get gallery2 working with wordpress. I’m so proud of myself. I’ve still got an eye for understanding and tweaking code after, what has it been, two years since I last programmed, and four since I wrote any serious code? OK, so this wasn’t a huge project but I’m still happy to know I can support my own web projects.

Anderson Cooper is reporting live from the Gulf. NPR has a story about Louisiana Governor, Kathleen Babineaux Blanco, inviting Andres Duany, co-founder of the architectural firm Duany Plater-Zyberk & Co., to plan the new New Orleans. I feel like I’ve arrived in the midst of something, but I won’t know exactly what until my background check clears. Until then I have a few days to explore Baton Rouge and Louisiana on my own. Please post in the comments any suggestions of where you think I should visit.

Today was a study in contrasts. The past few days have seen me increasingly frazzled as I struggled to prepare everything I needed for living out of a suitcase in Louisiana motels for the next three months. A minor fiasco with my credit card meant that I didn’t arrive in Baton Rouge as expected and will instead arrive tomorrow (Thursday). (Note to self: make sure to tell the credit company that your company will be making travel arrangements for you with your credit so they won’t shut down your card under the impression that it had been stolen.) Couldn’t have gotten anything done these past few days without the help of friends and zipcar. Just to catch you up to speed, Sunday I put this blog together, Monday I met with the FEMA contractor I’ll be working for to officially be hired and given a worker’s orientation; Tuesday, my friend Allan helped me go shopping for clothes and luggage, after which I needed to move my apartment into storage by 6pm. I just managed to do that when I came home and realized that I had forgotten to put my bike into storage and my kitchen items, and my computer. All of this was done in haste under the impression that I’d be leaving Wednesday morning. Such a good start for a planner! The good news is that the company that hired me couldn’t purchase the ticket for Wednesday because the credit was frozen by all of these odd purchases, completely out of profile with my regular frugal behaviour. Wires were tripped, flags were a-wavin’, many cellular minutes were expended waiting for available attendants. Thankfully, my point-of-contact at the company was forgiving, patient, and relieved that it was all getting sorted out.

So now I am at Paul’s, having been walked out of my home down the block by my landlord after giving him the keys and breaking my lease. With my extra day I was able to put almost everything into storage (forgot the kettle) and to clean my room. I believe it was the clean room that impressed Mr. D—- into forgiving my broken lease and even offering to give back my deposit if only he could find a new tenant by February. (Fingers crossed). Minutes ago, Nikki stopped by and handed me a note with all the blessings I could ever want for what I’m about to do. (Nikki is a miracle and a holy person and I struggle to keep this in mind when she is talking to me because she looks like any other normal human.) I was beginning to feel anxious… about what I had gotten myself into, especially after experiencing the graciousness of friends helping throught these last few days — I won’t have their company so very soon.

Other things to report as well but they were too painful to go over in any detail. Let it just be said that friendship is something to cultivate, and romantic love with all of its magic, is no surrogate for it, if often an impostor. I leave for Louisiana tomorrow with blessings from Jon, and Paul, and Nikki, and Jackie, people who I didn’t know a year ago, and some of them even a few months ago — but people who I give my love to and share with the solidarity of my being.

• clear out of my room
• move my stuff into storage
• determine what to bring with me to Louisiana
• book a flight
• show my room to prospective tenants
• buy some luggage, say goodbye to friends
• sign paperwork
• and maybe buy an ev-do cellular data card, and a big 2.5″ 100gb hd for the lappy.

It’s hard for me to imagine that in only a few short days I’ll be saying goodbye to DC for something completely different and a way of living I’ve never experienced.

And here’s a pic of me pasty white sitting in my now empty room (except for this computer) in a beaming white wifebeater shirt. Nothing better for sweating in and getting dirty thana wifebeater, or “A-shirt”, when you’re moving. How did I get on without one all these years of changing apartments?